DIY OUTDOOR FUN FURNITURE REDO

DIY OUTDOOR FUN FURNITURE REDO

Redone Wrought Iron Patio Furniture on the back patio with a green planter

REDOING THE REDO WITH DOTS!

Wrought Iron Patio Furniture Redo is what happens when I have too much time on my hands! As you might know, I spent some time last Fall redoing our wrought iron patio furniture. Our rusted wrought iron patio set was worn out, dirty, and an eyesore on our new backyard patio. Not any more! Now our wrought iron patio furniture looks brand new and so fun with the Dot Redo!

before collage of the weathered worn original table

Click on this link👉 Wrought Iron Redo for step by step instructions on how to clean up your worn metal patio furniture and make it look like brand new!

Finished redone dark grey just like new wrought iron table and chairs

The chairs are the next project!

Personally this is my favorite redo I’ve done so far. The polka dots add a splash of color with an amusing vibe. Unfortunately I’m not done…the chairs, Ugh!?‍♀️. I have a feeling some choice words are going to pop out of my mouth during that project…Beware Family!

This project looked a lot easier than it actually was. I kept telling myself if it turns out really bad at least I could spray paint it back to all gray. Thank goodness all went as planned…something fun, happy, and with a little bit of WOW!

STEP BY STEP PATIO FURNITURE REDO

Step one in the redo with dots patio furniture

Step 1:

OK, I know what your thinking this looks so amateurish. Well guess what it is but it got the job done!

Loosely covering the underside of the table was absolutely necessary to protect the legs from the orange, green, and blue paint. It prevented smear and overspray underneath.

Step 2:

Large Circle Stencil

You’d think circle stencils would be easy to find online but they’re not. I must have searched for a week and finally found on Houzz, approximately $35 including shipping

Circle Stencil on table getting ready to spray

These stencils have a sticky back which I can’t decide if that helped or harmed during this project.

I added the white card stock border so they wouldn’t stick together. Turns out the little bit of sticky back that I didn’t cover helped keep them in place while I sprayed. The newspaper was for an extra layer of overspray shield.

Step 3

Circle Stencil on the table with protective newspaper

As you can see I ended up adding more paper shield. The wind, ugh the wind!, picked up and I had to shut it down for the day.

Step 4

Beginning to spray stencils on table with orange blue and green paint on a grey table

As you can see the next day was less windy and got more done. I sprayed on opposite sides of the table as not to smear the wet paint. This is all I was able to get done on day 2.

Step 5

More sprayed dots all sizes on grey wrought iron patio table

Day 3 & 4 went a lot better. The key to this project was to take plenty of time and not get in a hurry. The hardest part was knowing when to stop! More dots could have been added but sometimes less is more. I can always go back and add more.

Day 5 & 6 was cleanup day. I did have over spray and smear spots. I used a disassembled cardboard box and the edge of the stencil to shield the dots from over spraying the dark grey base coat. That was pretty tricky.

Rust-oleum Paint cans on the finished wrought iron redone with polkadots table
Colors used: Gloss Real OrangeSatin LagoonSatin Eden

I still have one really faint spot I missed but sometimes you just have to stop while you’re ahead. No one’s pointed it out yet…and I live with a very critical bunch!

All in all this project took about 5-6 working hours and 6 total days. A lot off time was spent waiting for the paint to dry. You need patience, time, good weather, and a steady spray hand!

REDO UPDATE…THE CHAIRS ARE DONE!!!

MATERIALS NEEDED FOR WROUGHT IRON REDO

  • Stencils from Houzz. Note: I probably searched about a month off and on for the right method to spray paint polka dots. I tried to make my own out of cardboard which, of course, was a big, fat failure. When working with spray paint the edge of your border has to be sharp and crisp for a well defined clean look.
  • Painter’s Tape
  • Newspapers
  • Cardboard
  • Copy Paper
  • Spray adhesive
  • Non-windy, not hot days! The fall is perfect for a project like this!!

Drop me a comment and let me know what you think!

Always,

Elise

Finished wrought iron redo table on the back patio with a green planter and grass and flowers in it.
I love this!
facebook cover post
fun fall project diy
Just Like New…Wrought Iron ReDo!

Just Like New…Wrought Iron ReDo!

You don’t have to buy new patio furniture to get that just like brand new look! Redoing your old, worn out wrought iron and saving $1000 plus on new “affordable” outdoor furniture that won’t look good in 3 years is definitely a smart option to consider.

Just think how far that $1000+ would go on something that really matters. Like a memory making vacation to the beach or an awesome road trip to the Grand Canyon!

The contractor and I were gifted this Woodard Wrought Iron set from “JP”, my wonderful father-in-law, when we first got married. It was brand spank’in new and we were so proud of it. It looked great on our first deck of our first house; the cutest house we ever owned…Awwww!

Fast forward 27 years?‍♀️ and it’s worn and rusty and just tired. In fact for the last 7 or 8 years it’s purpose was more of a “sh!? catcher” than an outdoor eating space.

old worn patio furniture
The down and dirty look of 27 years of use!

Surely you’ve had wrought iron furniture that resembles this ?.

The beautiful dirty glow of years of memories and extreme weather. A little out dated with the flowers and all but still it’s worth the effort. If my memory is accurate I think it was around $800 brand new. Now days it would be at least twice that much and not the quality.

You talk about heavy, durable, and something that will survive the coming zombie apocalypse! This set will definitely be around for my great grand childen…but of course they won’t want it…no one will by then?‍♀️.

wrought iron comparison
First pass on our new concrete patio?‍♀️

I’ve had this project in my head for a while but it always would come to me in the middle of the summer when it’s way too hot to do anything outside. Then by the time it’s cool enough and I’ve recovered from the heat I would forget about it… but not this time.

Prep time – Wrought Iron ReDo

This project got started at the end of August last year when we had an unseasonable cool, still day.

Of course, the first step in any project is the prep and it usually starts off with a drop cloth.

Step by step instructions

Step 1: Scrape and sand and scrape and sand. The above chairs were sanded and scraped first. I used a 120 grit sandpaper and a metal scraping tool to tackle the really hard rust.

Step 2: Once step 1 is accomplished make sure you wipe the rust dust off really well with a wet towel. Let it set for about 30 minutes just to make sure all moisture has evaporated.

Step 3: Now for the fun part…start spraying. I used Rust-Oleum 2X Ultra Cover Paint+Primer, Dark Gray Gloss. Side note: It doesn’t matter if there is no wind…there will always be over spray. Like the over spray that appeared on our new concrete patio! The Contractor wasn’t happy?‍♀️! Oops:(

old furniture dungeon
Project dungeon!

Step 3 continued: Move project to a safe zone…the yard dungeon. The place where all my projects are sent when they go rouge!

Step 4: Lightly sand again and then wipe down the painted area. Look for missed spots. Sanding a second time on your first coat will ensure it’s smooth and silky to the touch.

Step 5: Spray a second coat making sure all areas are painted. Note: when painting wrought iron with a weave backing pattern make sure you paint from all angles. Every surface needs to be painted or else you will get a dull look.

Now that the chairs were 80% done, the table was next.

Chairs in their holding zone before the final coat was applied.

Step 6: Start on the table following Step 1 through 5. Believe it or not the table was in worse shape than the chairs, more rust buildup.
Using a toothbrush I experimented with vinegar and baking soda on the tough spots but it made more of a mess than it helped. So I got out the electric sander. I went through more sand paper this way but it got the job done:)

table in bad shape
This table was in really bad shape!

Spraying the table was a breeze and super fun.

The first pass on the bottom didn’t take long at all. The next day I had to re-position it upright to spray the top. This is why it took me so long. Every paint pass you spray you have to wait a day for it to dry. The can says 2 hours but I’m not sure they meant dry time in Oklahoma…humidity plus!!!

Having fresh eyes on your project the next day really helps in detecting the missed spots.

All in all the table took me about a week to finish, 3 coats of paint, and twelve cans for the whole project! At $2.75 a can, approximately $40, that beats buying a brand new expensive set!

finished look
Now that it’s done I want to have a party:)

Wow! doesn’t that look better?! I can’t believe how a fresh coat of paint makes the whole patio area look fresh and new! I would say this project took about 10 total hours from start to finish. If you have an indoor workshop area then you’re golden! I don’t, so it took me 10 hours spread over 3 months. But at least I got it done before winter hit…yay me!

Always,

Elise

Look for my updated wrought iron redo polka dot post!!!

 

Deco Makeup Chair Makeover-Turquoise & Wrought Iron

Deco Makeup Chair Makeover-Turquoise & Wrought Iron

 4 HOUR MONTH!

Hi Y’all! I’ve been working on this little deco style makeup chair makeover for the past month. For such a little squat you’d think I could have done it in less that a day. Truth is it probably didn’t take me more than 4 hours total! Busy time of year… getting kids where their suppose to be, a quick-long road trip to West Texas for my niece’s wedding shower, selling a few houses to the best buyers in the universe! Life is sweet right now and this little project just added a little sugar!

Adorable Makeup Chair – Deco Style

This little chair has been in my life ever since the Contractor and I have been married (lonnnngggg time) and in every master bath we’ve owned with the exception of one…the Trenton House. The absolute smallest MB in the history of indoor plumbing; Barbie size…just not pink AND the coldest floor this side of the north pole.

HEATED FLOORS IN BATHROOMS SHOULD BE A CODE REQUIREMENT!

It was purchased for about $75 (which was A LOT at the time) at one of my all time favorite shops, Mango and Salsa, which sadly has been closed for a long time now. Wrought iron wasn’t particularly popular then but I’ve never been one to go with a trend. Hey, but now it’s popular and with good reason; it’s so durable and can be easily updated and redone to make it look brand new plus the redo part can be super cheap.

Paint, vinyl fabric, and sand paper costs all of $25, maybe less. 

I HATE PREP (prepping the metal)

The worst part of a project like this…big or small is the prep, ugh, I hate prep! But its super important! See the white stuff pictured above ??  It’s not sanding shavings from the old paint…it’s hairspray and other bathroom yuk that’s built up over 25 years! Kinda gross y’all! Eventually I figured out rubbing alcohol and Q-tips would make the de-yukking easier. The bottom part of the chair was a breeze, sanded it lightly to make it smooth. Wipe down with a soft rag blotted with white vinegar.

Deco Metal Frame

PAINTING METAL FRAME

After the cleanup process the fun starts, painting! Coordinating the current metal materials in the bathroom I used  Oil Rubbed Bronze  metallic paint for the frame. The primer is already in the paint which saves a step. Spray painting is definitely easier these days with the awesome colors and type choices than when I first started 25+ years ago.

The Hardest Step

The fabric was the hard part, so many choices! Thinking cheap, Hobby Lobby was my first stop. I knew they carried some fun vinyl fabric. Unfortunately, I didn’t find any fun stuff so I settled on a black embossed vinyl piece. It was only like 7  bucks so if something better came along I wouldn’t be out much. After about a week I knew it wouldn’t work, so I started looking online. Fabric.com popped up with a great selection and an even greater price range! The vinyl that really spoke to me, of course, was in the $30-$50 a yard range with the exception of the turquoise one pictured above. It was around $5.50 a yard with a 2 yard minimum plus shipping, not bad!  Changing it later if I get bored won’t be a big deal; like to bright orange or tomato red!

MUSCLE POWER

The rest was pretty easy except the old stable removing part; thank goodness my Contractor likes my smile:) Strong finger muscles really come in handy with old staples removal.

ASSEMBLY STEPS
  • Cut your fabric about an inch larger on all sides using the old fabric as your pattern.
  • If savable, save your old cushion batting and reuse.
  • Place the new fabric right side down on the work table and place batting on top.
  • Mold the batting around the board making sure everything is squared up.
  • Fold fabric over one side of the board.  Using a staple gun shoot your first staple into the middle of that side.
  • Go to the opposite side and repeat the above step, making sure you still have everything lined up and pulled taunt.
  • Staple the remaining 2 sides the same, making sure the fabric is taunt and  fabric is still square.
  • Repeat the steps above over and over until you get to the corners; CORNERS ARE LAST!

Cushion Assembly

CORNERS

  • Corners on a curve are more challenging then square corners.
  • First, find the middle of the corner and pull tight and staple, then work the fabric into a pleat and staple. This step might take a while to find the exact look you want. (Note: if your cushion is inset into a chair frame then the overall corner pleat probably won’t be noticeable, take this into consideration before you start)
  • This cushion was exposed on all sides so I really wanted to make it look neat, most chairs aren’t like this.
  • Trim the excess fabric on bottom of cushion to clean up the underside.

The great thing about staples is they are pretty forgiving…meaning you can always pull them out and do it again!

Align the refinished cushion screw holes with the frame holes and start screwing:)

Whew, enjoy your new look!

TYFR,

Elise

Disclaimer: Clicking on the informative,interesting, and helpful advertisements in this post will result in a very small residual for this blog so please feel free to click away:)

What you’ll need:

Furniture Item

Heavy Duty Staple Gun

Staples

Fabric

Screw Driver

Sandpaper

Spray Paint

Decreasing Agent, White Vinegar, or Rubbing Alcohol

Q-tips & Rags

Homeowners Homework…remodeling tips!

Homeowners Homework…remodeling tips!

Start planning your remodel job now to get started after the holidays!

So you’re thinking about remodeling your home. You probably have become a big Pinterest fan and you have hundreds of pins for your new kitchen remodel wish list. Or you’re a Houzzer and you have a multitude of kitchen, bath, outdoor living area boards that you’ve been collecting for that day when you have the time, the money, and the patience to redo you’re mid century home you…well… bought in the mid century:) Sure, a little tear out here and there, use some subway tile, pick out some paint and boom your done, living happily in a swank new place that you know is worth twice what you paid. Ha, Ha, Ha, Ha…don’t fall for it, please!  HGTV is not real life …not even close.

Does your schedule allow for a major home life disruption?

First of all, you most likely have a full time job not construction related. Secondly, chances are you have children or planning to have them in  the near future.  Or you have pets that are like your children and require most hourly attention. What I’m trying to get across is a remodel job big or small is a major disruption, although temporary, it still screws with your daily routine and if you think a kitchen will just take a couple of weeks “As Seen On TV”; think again…it won’t.

The truth is it will most likely take twice as long to get those subs out of your house than originally planned; believe me!

I’m sure you’re thinking “how does this Chick know anything about remodeling?” Let’s just say I’ve had 20+ years of living with a remodeling contractor, lived through 4 of our own, and been a working observer on more than a few+ new constructs and remodels big and small. They’re all different, some spectacular, some practical and modest, and some should I say didn’t end well because the owner got all DIY at the end. Let me just say this now because I’m going to say it at the end of this blog…

A bad remodel job is worse than no remodel job!

It doesn’t matter if you have the best frame crew, sheet rock guy and spectacular floor plan. If you plan on doing the finish work yourself it will make the whole project look, well, like you did it yourself.  You won’t get those envious reviews like you hoped.

Helpful hints for a lot of smiles and years of pride.

    • Start off with a specific idea/design and get your plans on paper. Draw it out on grid paper. Have your tape measure ready to do some space design. For me this is the hardest part except maybe writing checks:(
    • Do you have enough equity in your home to absorb the remodeling costs? Make sure you’ve done your research here. Homeowners always think their home is worth more than it presently is, me included. If you’re going to be selling in the next couple of years it might not make sense to sink a lot of money in a major redo unless you know the end result of the kitchen or master bath will pay off. Check with a real estate agent to run comps in your area just to make sure. A good rule of thumb I’ve observed over the years is the basic costs of a remodel job general starts around $150-$200/ft. The smaller the space the more expensive.
    • Will the actual process of remodeling be worth going through? This is especially true if you have little ones at home. Like if you have a newborn set of triplets then I would strongly suggest not to go down that road just yet. I’d wait until they are at least able to take a whiz by themselves. Just sayin!
    • Fine tune your ideas even to hardware and light switch covers. Dimmers or no dimmers? Door knobs; levers or old fashioned knobs? Soft close drawers and cabinets on all or just a few? It really matters when a contractor is bidding your job.
    • Contact a couple of draftsman, contractors, or architects. Make sure you ask about their service fees. Is the architect going to make a rough draft or something you can get a permit off of. Are they going to include electric, lighting, plumbing, heat and air design, etc? We have spent thousands of dollars on architectural plans that consist of one piece of paper! A draftsman is much cheaper and a good, experienced contractor can take a rough plan and fill in the electrical, plumbing, heat & air needs.Or can you design it yourself on an easy, cheap computer program like I have in the above sketch. The cost of the program is minuscule compared to an architectural fee. I use Home Designer Architectural 2016,  and if I remember correctly it was around $150 for a licence and then of course a little more each year if you upgrade to the newest version.  (Note: if you’re planning a really big job then the pros are probably the way to go)

      The list goes on…

    • Find out what the permit requirements are in your town.
    • Does your remodel warrant the most expensive finishes? This is where you can break your budget or save your budget.
    • Flooring: pros and cons to wood vs engineered wood vs tile vs carpet. (advise from a real estate agent: don’t choose more than two kinds of flooring for one view (ex: carpet, wood, tile all in one room. It looks cheap!)); and especially if it’s a smaller home. I once had a house listed that had 5 flooring types in the view from the front door; tile in the entry, carpet in the living room, parquet flooring in the dining, wood stairs, and a different tile in the den! Needless to say I never sold that house and neither did anyone else!
    • Cabinets; what kind of wood? finish (pre-finished or onsite finish), soft close, hardware, style? Will a cabinet company help with storage ideas, design? Does it make sense to go with the most expensive cabinets? Ask friends what kind of cabinets they have, are they happy with them?
    • Windows:  all wood, insulated, aluminum on outside-wood on inside, vinyl?
    • Doors: all wood, insulated, aluminum on outside –wood inside, custom made, solid or hollow core?
    • Are you going to have to upgrade your heat and air, move electrical boxes, move air conditioning units, plumbing or can you design around these items. (moving h&a units, electrical boxes are EXPENSIVE!)
    • Appliances: Look at consumer reports and possibly call an appliance repair man to get an idea of which appliances he services the most or the least. Some high end luxury appliances breakdown more than less expensive brands. Plus they are super expensive to work on once the warranty expires. Some models are discontinued early and parts are difficult to find. 

Sure the Thermador is a little bigger but is it worth $8000+ more for a couple of more inches!Sinks and faucets are the same as appliances in price range…all over the place! Can you get a better deal over the internet or through the plumber? What happens if a piece is missing from an online order and you discover it when its time to install?

    • Do you really need to tile every bathroom wall or can you live with just the shower/tub/floor area being tiled. Again, makes a big difference in the final bid price.
    • Sink, shower, tub: do you need the $1500 tub or will the $600 be just fine. Or do you even need to replace the tub..look into resurfacing.
    • Light fixtures: pendant lighting, cans, dimmers, under mount lighting…lots of choices. Be sure of what you want way before the electrician knocks on your door…cause if you don’t have them picked out chances are you will have to wait another 2-3 weeks before he can come back..
    • Counter tops; Ugh! So many choices and such a price difference. Do your homework on the pros and cons. Do you really need that Calacatta Gold?

Have you thought about mixing surfaces? One really nice piece of granite on the island and a less expensive top for the counters can be a fantastic look.

Paint: its usually the last item to tackle and it’s not the time to start scrimping by painting it yourself. A bad paint job will make the whole remodel look cheap.  A professional job is worth every penny.

Same with the floor…don’t decide to stain or install the floor yourself. You will never forgive yourself!

Things to ask yourself before you get started

How long am I going to live in this house? Is the cost going to raise the value of my home by at least 80 percent of the job cost. Is the floor plan easy to get around and the space maximized to the fullest? Will you need that extra space after the kids leave?

These thoughts and ideas are not intended to discourage you from creating your dream home. On the contrary, I hope it encourages you to dream and build the home you’ve envisioned since the first time you walked through those doors. Remodeling can be super fun and a great way to add value to most likely the largest investment you own.

Being prepared ahead of time for the journey through the construction project makes the experience much more enjoyable. Like I said before, a bad remodel job is worse than no remodel job! Do your homework and make your next project fabulous and with enough moula left over for that well deserved beach vacation cause you’re going to need it:)

Disclaimer: I am not a professional renovation contractor….I’m a contractor’s wife of over 20 years. This post is not meant to endorse any  products or contracting professionals with the exception of mine:). These remodeling tips are from observation through out the many years I have been involved in the real estate profession and residential building business.

Always,

Elise

 

Stencil the Master Bath

Stencil the Master Bath

Wall stenciling is not a new decorating idea/concept by any means. When I decided I just couldn’t live with my Master Bath decor anymore I turned to wall stenciling. It is cheaper than wallpaper, more interesting than just plain wall color, and is relatively easy to do! The hardest part is choosing the stencil!

Stenciling goes back some 35,000 years when the bored caveman had some free time and decided to decorate with plant pigments against his cave wall. Usually with his hands or his poison arrow blow tube. I’m sure he didn’t think much of it at the time but low and behold he just discovered stencil art.

Bronze and Silver Stencil on master bath wall

Since then, mankind has stenciled about everything you can think of; clothes, books, caves, buildings, graffiti, tatoos – bodies, etc. Really anything that can hold a shape or form can be used as a stencil and literally anything that has a solid surface can be stenciled on!

Bathroom Updo!

For a decor upgrade and definite mood elevator, I turned to stenciling for our boring old bathroom. I’ve been thinking about it for a long time but never felt I had the time to start and finish in a decent amount of time until recently.

Aging out of certain mom duties…like being a chauffeur to my youngest…has freed up some extra hours in the day; hence stenciling and hence BLOGGING about it:)

bathroom window before the stencil

As stated in Part 1 of my stenciling blog saga, wallpapering has never been my thing; way too much possibility of messing up. Way, way too many choices, and way, way, way too much work. If it was just a border then I could deal with that but then borders are so ’90 right? and I didn’t even like them when they were in style!

Stenciling Versus Wallpaper!

Stenciling, on the other hand, is a whole different deal.

  • It’s cheaper (by A LOT).
  • It generally takes fewer tools.
  • You can be more creative with colors and placement. It’s like creating your own wallpaper; you’re your own designer and the sole creator of your world!
  • Plus it’s really fun!

How To Stencil Your Boring Bathroom

After the new fresh base coat was applied, the beat-up, brownish pink moldings really stood out, like dog dodo!  So THE MAN had to spruce up the woodwork with our 25 plus years of “go-to” molding color…Silver Lining by Pratt & Lambert.

P.S….I don’t know what came over me during the initial remodel when I picked out the band-aid beige molding color but whatever! Thank God, that phase is over.

Shop Paint – Compare

After the bathroom was back to a decent shade of off white, fresh, and clean. The time came to chose the stencil and the colors. I had gold, silver, and a shiny off white in mind to stay neutral and go with the goldish granite.  I had my eye on the P&L metallic line, the colors are very rich and have a lot of depth but $45 a half-gallon just wasn’t in the budget.

I opted for a trip down the street to the local craft store in search of a cheaper alternative. There wasn’t a lot of metallic paint choices so I grabbed the largest amount for the least amount of money, $20ish compared to over $100 was worth a try.

After that first painted stencil I knew my trip down the street was worth the effort; I loved the color! I used an acrylic water-based paint…just so you know its good on walls and wood but not metal or plastic.

stenciling start on the bathroom wall

In the beginning…

Once the materials were figured out and Contractor approved; the makeover was underway.

Must Haves For A Stencil Project

Baby Wipes in action…Great for mess ups!

Paper plates and paper towels are truly a must. Paper plates are semi absorbent so the paint doesn’t slide all over the place.

The paper towels act as a paint brush blotter so you don’t end up with big gobs of paint on your brush.

If you don’t blot those gobs, I promise, they will make it behind your stencil…hence the need for baby wipes; not good:( Note: Christmas paper plates are not essential).

Once you get comfortable with the stencil/blot/apply action, the areas fill up pretty fast. It’s kinda like regular painting where the prep is the most time consuming but extremely essential. 

I estimate it took about 14 total hours of fun, creative, easy labor (except the hard to get to corners) to finish this job. The hardest part for me and my compulsive self is knowing when to quit…That’s a real issue, I promise:)

I absolutely love the end result! Instead of being reminded of how boring this room use to be, I walk into it every day and smile.

Collage of the finished bathroom stencil project

Accomplishing this goal in a relatively short time makes my long list of redos and remodels not so daunting. Now if my contractor hubs would cooperate it might be a total makeover year:)

In the next couple of weeks keep your eyes out for the last and final segment in this remake series, Accessories – Part 3. If you have any questions on techniques, materials, anything please don’t hesitate to reach out to me.

Always,

Elise

Disclaimer: I’m not a professional decorator, painter, or contractor (like my hubs). Just someone who always looks forward to the next project and on the lookout for a new idea.

Here are a few other quick and easy remodeling ideas from TCC👇

Wrought Iron Redo

Makeup Chair Makeover

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. 

Master Makeover Time–Part I

Master Makeover Time–Part I

My castle is an endless stream of projects waiting, wanting and needing to happen. Just like a living being, a house needs constant attention or the whole thing goes to hell! Some parts of my house are absolutely wonderful and some parts not so much. Now that our kids are older and on the move without the constant aid of “mom’s taxi service” I’m now able to concentrate on how to make my contractor hubs downtime more “action packed“…Teehee! From scratched and dented molding, kid soccer murals that are peeling off the wall, to old out of date window coverings, bathroom updates and certainly not last or least…the kitchen-office-covered patio/deck project….The house makeover has begun!

I’m starting off in our master bath we expanded and totally remodeled when we moved in 10+ years ago. The original bath was a shower/tub combo with Pepto-Bismol pink tile, tiled acoustical ceiling, and carpeted pink cracked tile floor. It was beautiful and very mid century in its day but very well used and just worn out. We incorporated the space used for a dressing room that was adjacent with an old tired vanity and drawers that wouldn’t slide, a cracked mirror that just wasn’t magical anymore, and re-purposed the space for a big master closet. And lastly a hall closet was claimed for the second vanity and more room!

The update included a large walk-in multi spray shower, separate vanities with sinks with multiple drawers, plugs, makeup area for yours truly:), and heated floors! If you’re thinking, OMG! heated floors! You’re right….they are worth every. single. penny. we spent on them!

We never really liked the paint colors we picked out ten years ago so my mission for this month is to fix it. One of my biggest dislikes in remodeling is the process of picking out paint colors, especially whites! I’ve been known to hire a decorator friend of mine for 30 minutes just to help me with one color. But I’m doing this on a budget so no easy way out for me this time. The truth is I really wanted to wall paper the place but I just knew that wasn’t going to happen. I had visions of unintentionally wrapping myself in a whole role of wallpaper with glue all over my face. I have successfully put up a border but that’s about as far as my cut, glue and smooth skills go.

(First Action Step: Start doing it yourself then the Contractor will take over, he can’t stand it when I paint!)

After several attempts at choosing a color, ugh color swatches! And several quart samples, ugh more little paint cans in the garage. I do what I usually do and make my own color. I didn’t want it taupe or gray or a yellow white; I had my bisque sink color in mind and I think I got pretty close. We ended up mixing 1 quart Pratt and Lambert Antique White and 1 quart regular white; in the end it turned out a winner! It matches the sink exactly and will be perfect for a base coat. Awww, wait, BASE COAT! Yes there is more to come, Stenciling! I’m so excited, I think the result is going to be super cool!

(The paint matches the sink)

Come back next week for Part II – Stenciling!

Always Elise